Thursday, December 30, 2010

Cité médiévale de Pérouges

mardi 28 decembre

Pérouges is a medieval walled town 30 km northeast of Lyon. It is perched on a small hill that overlooks the plain of the Ain River.

The aerial photo below is courtesy of google images.
On a very dull day with light drizzly rain, we caught the 11.13 Rhône - Alpes TER from Gare Part Dieu ( 13.80 euro return) to Pérouges on the recommendation of my Rough Guide to France and Sue Brink who had visited this village when she came on this tour 6 years ago, I think.
Upon arrival at the Meximieux-Pérouges station, we found a muddy and messy building site - the car park we had to walk through was being rebuilt. Not an attractive start to our visit to Perouges.

We wandered into the low village of Meximieux looking for a sign to tell us where to go, I knew we had to walk a kilometre or so to get there but I didn't know in which direction. 

The Office de Tourisme was ferme for the holidays.
I eventually asked a lady at the post office parle vous anglais?,  and she gave us the directions.



One of the most beautiful villages in France.  We piétons followed the sign, with high expectations!

                                                     
                                A gorgeous farm gate!


We had arrived at Pérouges! Can I say, haute ville??



             You can see the wall and the entrance arch (not the main entrance, by the way.


Historical Information from Wikipedia:
Pérouges was inhabited by craftsmen — mainly farmers and linen weavers. It was probably founded by a Gallic colony returning from Perugia in Italy. In 1167, the Segneir d'Anthon famously shut the commune's walls against the troops of the Archbishop of Lyon and as early as 1236 the inhabitants earned communal freedom. In 1601 the town officially became French. Until the end of the 18th century, the textile industry in Pérouges boomed. In the 19th century, however, roads and railroads were re-routed and the population dropped from 1,500 to 90. But, starting in 1911, the town was restored and houses were saved.
Today, Pérouges is a popular tourist attraction.


On this day, between Christmas and New Year, all sensible tourists knew to stay away - everything would be closed!! At least the streets were deserted enabling people-free photos!


 We passed under the archway and were immediately transformed into another world, I can understand why this quaint, well-preserved village was used as a film set for Les trois mousquetaires Fr:(1961) and Monsieur Vincent Fr:(1947) just to name two of the movies filmed here.


The laneways were really slippery, as they were made of rounded cobbles surrounded by an icy snowy slush - walk carefully!

 Snow melt water off the roofs constantly dripped on us and collected in the shallow gutter in the middle of the street, forming a petite creek!



Everything looked so old and original: handmade stone roads, steps, walls and fences......



......   weathered wooden doors... .



..... painted wooden shutters and heavy iron hinges and handles



.....pretty christmas decorations....


                                  ....beautiful lead light windows in decorative stone frames...


 .... painted signs advertising the local speciality la galette de Perouges (a pizza-type dough with fromage or sucre topping baked in a pizza oven I think), but all the cafes were closed unfortunately!



                               ....interesting medieval construction techniques ....



Dripping icicles hanging from the terracotta tiled eve ....

 


             ...see the corn cobs hanging to dry from the ceiling of the verandah of this restaurant .....



 ....snow-capped clipped hedges of this parterre jardin ....



.....but all the cafes and gift shops ( that was lucky for the credit card!) , like those below were well and truly ferme ....



More slushy ansd slippery streets .....




Next to the church,  is a memorial to the chidren of Perouges, the inscription reads: 
 aux enfants de Perouges morts pour la france 1914 to 1918  ....





 ... the elegant 13th - 15th century church was fortunately ouvert !



Upon entering the church, your eyes are immediately drawn to the soaring vaulted ceiling ...



.. and then to the superb stained glas windows....


                                                             and the gorgeous statues ....




                                                And there is a very sweet creche, nativity ......


This is a very poor photo of St George, I think!



time to leave and cathc the train back to Lyon, via the boulangerie we had spotted  in Meximieux for lunch!!


The back wall of the church forms part of the fortress wall .....




A key-shaped hole  in the wall for firing weapons at the approaching  enemy!


We were exiting through the main entrance .... Bonnes Fetes


Looking out over the surrounding countryside....



... looking back up to Perouges on the hill .....


Au revoir Pérouges!


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